The high fashion-meets-comfort collaboration pushes the boundary of style with a £625 high-heeled sandal

In a bold move that cements the enduring power of the “ugly” shoe trend, fashion house Balenciaga has partnered with heritage orthopaedic brand Scholl to launch a new footwear collection — headlined by a hybrid sandal drawing comparisons to Frankenstein’s monster.

Dubbed the “Frankenshoe” by some fashion watchers, the design fuses the traditional front strap and buckle of Scholl’s classic Pescura sandal with a cork sole and an unexpected stiletto heel. Retailing at £625, the shoe aims to provoke and impress in equal measure.

The new line, released this week, also includes a minimalist white clog mule priced at £525 — reminiscent of the practical styles worn by nurses — and a logo-branded pool slide selling for £315.

The collaboration marks a new chapter for Scholl, a company more commonly associated with ergonomic design than high fashion. But with celebrities like Lily-Rose Depp and Sarah Jessica Parker recently stepping out in the brand’s footwear, Scholl is experiencing a renaissance. Sales have climbed in 2024, particularly among shoppers aged 29 to 45, with premium styles like the £200 heeled Cameron becoming bestsellers.

Emma Davidson, fashion director at Dazed, owns a pair of the Balenciaga Scholl heels and champions their unconventional charm. “It’s the weird contrast,” she explains. “It’s like an old maid shoe with a spindly heel — that clash adds something edgy.” Davidson, a self-proclaimed lover of “ugly shoes,” says they help her balance casual style with a touch of glam.

Scholl has a surprisingly long fashion pedigree. Founded in 1906 by American podiatrist Dr. William Scholl, the brand found fame with the Pescura sandal, launched in 1956 and worn by icons like Audrey Hepburn and Twiggy. It surged in popularity during the 1970s as the so-called “exercise sandal,” praised for its posture-improving benefits.

“They were outdoorsy, carefree, and seen as doing you some good,” says Rebecca Shawcross, senior curator at Northampton’s Shoe Museum. “In many ways, Scholl was ahead of its time.”

The clog mule — arguably Scholl’s signature shape — has also found renewed relevance, appearing on the runway at Miu Miu and in collections from Ancient Greek Sandals. This isn’t Scholl’s first fashion crossover either. Past collaborations include partnerships with Danish label Ganni and designer-DJ Honey Dijon in 2022.

Yves Guy Coulter, Scholl’s chief brand officer, says the latest collaboration reflects a broader shift in consumer priorities. “Scholl’s resurgence is part of the wider trend toward comfort-driven fashion,” he says. “Younger consumers are increasingly unwilling to sacrifice comfort for style.”

But not everyone is sold on the health benefits of Scholl’s designs. Dr. Helen Branthwaite, chief clinical adviser for the Royal College of Podiatry, cautions that while wooden soles can offer some benefits, the open-back slip-on style “makes the foot work harder and provides no real support.”

Still, compared to the pointed-toe high heels that have dominated fashion for centuries, the Scholl-Balenciaga hybrid might be a step in a healthier direction.

As Shawcross points out, tastes evolve. “There was a time when people scoffed at Crocs,” she says. “Now they’re everywhere. Maybe Scholls are next.”