Critics say Western fashion labels are repackaging traditional South Asian garments without credit, sparking conversations about cultural appropriation, respect, and representation.

A growing number of TikTok users and South Asian influencers are calling out major fashion brands for what they say is the uncredited appropriation of traditional South Asian clothing.

Recent collections from brands like Reformation, H&M, and Oh Polly have sparked backlash online, with critics arguing that the designs closely resemble traditional South Asian garments such as lehengas, shararas, and shalwar kameez — but without acknowledging their cultural origins.

One of the most pointed comparisons came after Reformation released a blouse and skirt set that social media users said bore a strong resemblance to a lehenga, a staple in Indian formalwear, especially popular during the Bollywood boom of the 2000s. Similarly, an Oh Polly gown drew comparisons to a sharara, a flowing pant set often worn during weddings, while H&M’s spring “long camisole” and trousers reminded many of a shalwar kameez — a common outfit across the Indian subcontinent.

“This is more than just fashion — it’s about history, respect, and identity,” said Souzeina Mushtaq, an assistant professor at the University of Wisconsin at River Falls, who researches the cultural impact of colonialism. “What we wore was often ridiculed. Now it’s trendy when someone else wears it — that double standard is painful.”

Mushtaq emphasized that appreciation of South Asian fashion must go beyond the surface. “True appreciation involves context, respect, and education,” she said. “You can’t just borrow aesthetics without understanding their roots.”

In response to the criticism, the brands have pushed back. H&M stated that its latest collection drew from “current fashion trends like dresses layered over pants and the popularity of sheer pieces.” Reformation acknowledged the broader concerns but said the design in question was inspired by a vintage John Galliano gown owned by model Devon Lee Carlson, who collaborated on the line. Oh Polly declined to comment.

Still, critics argue that credit and cultural context are crucial, especially when historically marginalized communities see their cultural expressions repackaged and sold without recognition.

“This could’ve been a moment to celebrate how Indian fashion has influenced global design,” said Aisha Rawji, CEO of the Indian fashion brand Kynah. “Even if the original inspiration was Galliano, where did he get his ideas? Likely from the East, as so many designers have.”

Galliano, who once faced widespread backlash over antisemitic remarks, was known for incorporating South Asian influences into his collections — including a 2002 show featuring models styled like Hindu deities and traditional sari elements.

Fashion experts note that while global fashion thrives on cultural exchange, appropriation involves a power imbalance — when dominant groups adopt elements from other cultures without acknowledgment, consent, or compensation.

“For us, this isn’t just about the clothes,” said Maryam Siddiqui, a 25-year-old South Asian content creator on YouTube. “These garments are part of who we are. They carry generational meaning — it’s not just fabric and thread.”

Manisha Patel, a TikTok user who posted about the issue, said the frustration stems from the erasure many South Asians have experienced. “My grandmother wore saris every day. I got bullied for it. Now the same styles are suddenly ‘chic’ when repackaged by Western brands? It doesn’t sit right.”

This isn’t the first time the issue has gone viral. Last year, fashion rental company Bipty was criticized after posting a video — later deleted — showing white women wearing sheer scarves and calling the look “European” and “effortlessly chic.” Many South Asian women responded with videos wearing dupattas, the traditional scarf in question, sarcastically dubbing it the “Scandinavian scarf.”

That pattern of cultural rebranding, many argue, continues today.

“It’s been made more palatable for a Western audience,” said Aditi Atreya, a 22-year-old aspiring content creator in Ireland. “Call it a sharara and they might hesitate, but call it a ‘convertible gown’ and it flies off the shelves.”

Praveen K. Chaudhry, a professor of global fashion management at the Fashion Institute of Technology, says brands must do better. “Most people don’t even know that ‘cashmere’ comes from Kashmir,” he said. “Fashion companies should take responsibility for educating consumers — even something as simple as adding the garment’s cultural origin to a clothing tag would be a start.”

He and Mushtaq agree that collaboration with South Asian designers and communities, as well as fair compensation, should be part of the equation.

“Our culture cannot be a mood board,” Mushtaq said. “It has a history, and that history deserves to be respected.”

Still, many within the South Asian diaspora say they welcome cultural appreciation — when it’s done right.

“If you’ve ever been to a South Asian household, you know we’ll hype you up when you wear our clothes,” said Siddiqui. “But only if we feel seen, heard, and respected. That’s the difference.”