From Iconic Staple to Sustainable Fashion Statement

A pair of jeans is more than just a piece of clothing – it’s a wardrobe staple that can evoke memories and emotions. But with the ever-changing trends and the environmental impact of the fashion industry, it’s easy to get caught up in the cycle of buying and discarding. However, with a little research and care, a pair of jeans can become a lifelong companion.

According to personal stylist Alexandra Fullerton, the key to investing in a perfect pair of jeans is to take a marathon approach, rather than a sprint. “Put in some work – a couple of hours in a real-life store with a well-lit fitting room and ideally a friend – to ensure the best purchase,” she advises. “Department stores with dedicated denim shops are the best place to start. Whatever your budget, jeans should be an investment so shop with longevity, rather than trends, in mind.”

Fullerton cautions against extremes, such as skinny and super-wide or ultra-high and low-rises, which are more prone to cycling in and out of fashion. “Better to choose a less severe silhouette that will outlast any fad, like a straight leg or modestly wide jean with a mid-to-high rise which will be classic for years ahead,” she advises.

One pair of jeans that has stood the test of time is the Levi’s 501, patented in 1873 by Levi Strauss and Jacob David. Originally created as durable, hard-wearing 100% cotton overalls for miners and farmers, it has become an iconic symbol of youth rebellion and fashion. However, with the rise of synthetic stretch and fast fashion, the denim landscape has changed forever.

Denim designer and lecturer Mohsin Sajid notes that jeans are now a staple in the fashion mainstream, but most contain synthetic stretch, which is derived from fossil fuels and sags over time, making them less durable. “There’s a reason Levi’s 501 has transcended time; they’re made from 100% cotton, with natural stretch,” explains Professor Dilys Williams, Director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion, UAL.

Williams suggests that consumers can make a difference by choosing raw denim, also known as dry denim, which hasn’t gone through pre-washing or shrinking processes in production. “It can be hard to make the switch to such a dark option, but after a few months you’ll never look back,” says Sajid. “Imperfections like slight slubs from the spinning and weaving process make it bespoke and could develop into a great fading jean.”

New jeans brands are emerging to tackle denim’s environmental impact, such as Agolde, which unveiled its spring collection in partnership with Lycra featuring a plant-based stretch fibre made from industrial corn. Nudie Jeans, a Swedish organic cotton brand, offers free repairs, while ELV Denim is pioneering a new luxury model based on waste, using upcycled materials and designing jeans to be modular and adaptable.

Ultimately, the key to a great pair of jeans is understanding which styles make you happy and devoting time to denim. “Try on different pairs, be bold and experiment, then build your denim blueprint,” advises Fullerton. “Add its durable quality to the mix, and a pair of jeans becomes a forever favourite – whatever the season.”