From Activism to Entrepreneurship: The Challenges and Opportunities of Sustainable Fashion

Amy Powney, the renowned London-based fashion designer, has long been a vocal advocate for sustainable fashion. Her documentary, Fashion Reimagined, which aired in 2022, brought attention to the industry’s environmental and social issues, and showcased her own journey towards creating a fully sustainable collection. Now, with her new brand, Akyn, Powney is taking a fresh approach to sustainability, one that prioritizes creativity, craftsmanship, and quality over the complexities of supply chains and data.

Powney’s decision to leave her previous role as creative director at Mother of Pearl, a brand she helped establish as a leader in sustainable fashion, was motivated by a desire to launch her own brand and start anew. Akyn’s first collection, launched earlier this year, is a testament to Powney’s continued commitment to sustainability. The brand’s aesthetic is elegant and chic, with a focus on minimal, elevated designs that tap into the same sensibilities as high-end labels like The Row.

However, Powney is quick to acknowledge the challenges that come with sustainable fashion. “Greenwashing is rife,” she says, “and consumers are so confused. No one supply chain is the same as the other, which is why capturing data is very hard.” Powney believes that the industry’s focus on transparency and supply chain management has led to a “massive peak of sustainability chat,” but also to a “flurry” of uncertainty, misunderstanding, and greenwashing.

One of the major issues Powney faces is the lack of legislation and regulation in the fashion industry. “There’s no law to dictate what sustainable fashion means,” she says, “so brands are left to interpret it themselves.” This has led to a proliferation of “sustainable” labels and certifications, which can be confusing for consumers.

Despite these challenges, Powney remains optimistic about the potential for sustainable fashion to become more mainstream. She argues that high street brands, which have the scale and price power to drive change, can switch to organic cotton and other sustainable materials without breaking the bank. Luxury brands, she says, should also be doing more to prioritize sustainability, and notes that there is “absolutely no reason why other brands cannot do this at lower prices.”

Powney’s own brand, Akyn, will be slightly more expensive than Mother of Pearl, but she believes that the quality and craftsmanship of her designs justify the higher price point. She also acknowledges that affordability is a key issue in sustainable fashion, and that consumers must be willing to pay a premium for sustainable products.

To address this issue, Powney plans to offer a range of price points for her designs, from more affordable options to higher-end pieces. She also hopes to inspire consumers to think more critically about their purchasing habits, and to consider the long-term impact of their fashion choices.

Ultimately, Powney’s goal with Akyn is to reconnect with her passion for style and design, and to inspire others to do the same. “I lost sight of a little girl who wanted to be a fashion designer,” she says, reflecting on her time at Mother of Pearl. Now, with Akyn, she is back to her roots, and committed to creating a more sustainable, more creative, and more meaningful fashion industry.

As Powney embarks on this new chapter in her career, she is aware of the responsibility that comes with being a leader in sustainable fashion. “I’m not just designing clothes,” she says, “I’m designing a better future for the fashion industry.” With Akyn, Powney is taking a bold step towards a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry, and inspiring others to do the same.