Designers to Watch: A Look at the Upcoming Shows and Exhibitions

As the men’s fashion shows wrap up in Milan, the focus shifts to Paris, where over the next five days, some of the world’s biggest labels will attempt to define the future dress codes of menswear. The city is abuzz with anticipation as designers such as Anthony Vaccarello, Craig Green, and Willy Chavarria return to the runway after a hiatus. This season’s lineup promises to be one of the most exciting in recent memory, with a mix of established names and fresh talent set to make their mark.

At the top of the list is Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior, where he is expected to bring a bold new vision to the iconic brand. Anderson has been dropping hints on social media, including a film photo of Jean-Michel Basquiat and Lee Radziwill, both shot by Andy Warhol and emblazoned with the original 1948 Dior logo. Fans are also speculating about the direction of the designer after he shared an image of a canary yellow book tote bag designed in the style of the first edition of Bram Stoker’s “Dracula”. This unique blend of art and fashion has been a hallmark of Anderson’s work, and it will be interesting to see how he incorporates it into his debut collection.

Meanwhile, Loewe, which typically shows at both women’s and men’s fashion weeks, has new designers in Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The duo, who were jointly appointed in March, will unveil their new vision in October, but for now, they will be absent from the calendar. However, their absence will be felt, as they are known for their bold and innovative designs.

Other designers to watch include Julian Klausner, who took the creative helm at Dries Van Noten at the end of last year and will present his first menswear collection on Thursday. Klausner’s vision for masculinity and menswear may be influenced by his women’s offering, which was rich in historical references and color. His use of textiles and embellishments added a level of sophistication and elegance to the collection, and it will be interesting to see how he translates this to the menswear market.

The week will also see a return to form for Saint Laurent, with Anthony Vaccarello designing for the label, which has taken up an official slot on the calendar. Vaccarello’s designs are known for their edgy, avant-garde style, and he is sure to bring a level of excitement and energy to the runway. British designer Craig Green is back after three years away from the City of Light, while buzzy New York-based brand Willy Chavarria is also returning after his Paris debut earlier this year.

Beyond the catwalk, Paris’ artistic institutions are also offering a glimpse into the world of fashion. The Palais Galliera will open its doors to “The Temple of Love”, a new retrospective chronicling Rick Owens’s boundary-pushing oeuvre since launching his label in 1992. The exhibition, which Owens helped artistically direct, is the second retrospective globally dedicated to the Californian designer. Owens is known for his avant-garde designs, which often blend elements of art, fashion, and performance. This exhibition promises to be a must-see for fashion enthusiasts and art lovers alike.

The Musée des Arts décoratifs will also open a new show on trailblazing designer Paul Poiret, a key figure in 20th century Parisian haute couture. The exhibition, which runs until January 2026, marks the museum’s first monograph dedicated to his work. Poiret was a true pioneer in the world of fashion, and his designs continue to influence designers today. This exhibition will provide a unique insight into his life and work, and is sure to be a highlight of the fashion season.

And Demna, Balenciaga’s creative director for the last decade, who is soon to depart for a new job at Gucci, is getting his flowers from parent company Kering via a retrospective staged at their headquarters on Thursday. This exhibition promises to be a fitting tribute to Demna’s time at Balenciaga, and will provide a unique opportunity to see some of his most iconic designs up close.