Luxury Fashion Label Responds to Accusations of Cultural Appropriation and Promises Meaningful Exchange with Local Artisans

Italian luxury fashion label Prada has acknowledged the Indian roots of its new footwear line, days after the design sparked controversy in India. The sandals, showcased at the Milan Fashion Week last week, had an open-toe braided pattern that closely resembled the traditional Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Prada initially described the sandals as “leather footwear” without mentioning their Indian origins, prompting backlash and allegations of cultural appropriation in India. However, in a statement to the BBC, Prada said it recognizes that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian footwear and has always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage, and design traditions.

The controversy began when the chief of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture, wrote to Prada, saying the design was commercialized without crediting the artisans who have preserved its heritage for generations. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, responded to the letter, saying that the sandals were “at an early stage of design” and that Prada was open to a “dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans.”

The Kolhapuri sandals, named after a city in Maharashtra where they are made, have a rich history dating back to the 12th Century. They are made from leather and sometimes dyed in natural colors, making them sturdy and well-suited to India’s hot climate. The traditional handcrafted sandals were awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, which credits a good or product as having originated from a certain region or place.

Many artisans in Kolhapur expressed their sadness over Prada’s use of the design without giving due credit. “These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others’ labor,” said Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan.

The controversy has highlighted the issue of cultural appropriation, where global brands use traditional Indian products without crediting their roots. This is not the first time that global brands have been accused of appropriating Indian traditional products without due credit. In 2025, Gucci described a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown, sparking backlash, and earlier in May, a popular TikTok trend was criticized for calling a dupatta, a traditional South Asian scarf, a Scandinavian scarf.

However, some artisans in Kolhapur have expressed pride in the fact that their work is being recognized by Prada. “Artisans are happy that someone is recognizing their work,” said Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More. “This recognition will help us to showcase our traditional craftsmanship to a wider audience and potentially open up new markets for our products.”

Prada’s decision to acknowledge the Indian roots of its footwear design has been seen as a positive step towards promoting cultural understanding and exchange. The company has promised to engage in a meaningful dialogue with local artisans and explore ways to collaborate and support traditional craftsmanship.

As the controversy surrounding Prada’s footwear design continues to unfold, it remains to be seen how the company will address the concerns of local artisans and ensure that its designs are respectful and culturally sensitive. However, one thing is clear: the issue of cultural appropriation is a complex and multifaceted one that requires careful consideration and a commitment to understanding and respecting the cultural heritage of other communities.