A Row Over Cultural Appropriation Raises Questions About Global Fashion’s Relationship with Traditional Craftsmanship

Prada, the renowned Italian fashion house, has found itself embroiled in a cultural storm after its recent Milan runway show featured a design that bears a striking resemblance to India’s iconic Kolhapuri sandals. The fashion house has acknowledged that its new leather sandal design was inspired by the traditional Indian footwear, which boasts a centuries-old heritage and has been awarded a geographical indication status by the Indian government.

The Kolhapuri sandal, crafted from buffalo hide and featuring a distinctive braided T-strap, is a ubiquitous part of Indian culture, worn by people from all walks of life, from farmers to business leaders. However, when Prada’s models strutted down the runway in a virtually identical design, it sparked a widespread backlash in India, with accusations of cultural appropriation.

The controversy has tapped into a broader debate about the ways in which global fashion houses frequently repackage traditional craftsmanship as luxury goods without providing credit or compensation to the original artisans. The stark price difference between the Indian Kolhapuri sandals, which cost around $12, and Prada’s version, retailing for upwards of $800, has only added fuel to the outrage.

In response, Prada’s corporate social responsibility chief, Lorenzo Bertelli, acknowledged the sandals’ inspiration, stating, “We acknowledge the sandals … are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.” However, many have deemed the fashion house’s response as inadequate, calling for meaningful exchange or fair compensation for the Indian craftspeople.

The row has also highlighted the challenges faced by traditional artisans in accessing the capital and business acumen required to position their products globally as luxury goods. As Dhanendra Kumar, a former World Bank executive director, noted, “While Indian artisans and small-scale producers excel in craftsmanship, they rarely have access to capital or business acumen” to compete with global fashion brands.

Yet, some believe that the controversy could have an unexpected upside. Local designers are hopeful that the spotlight will boost interest in the classic Kolhapuri design, especially among younger consumers. Since Prada’s runway show, Google Trends has shown a rise in searches for Kolhapuri sandals, and retailers have reported a surge in consumer interest.