Resisting the Downturn, but in Different Ways

Chanel and JW Anderson, two of the fashion world’s most prominent players, have responded to the global luxury downturn in distinct ways. While Chanel’s creative director, Matthieu Blazy, paid homage to the brand’s heritage in its recent Paris show, JW Anderson opted for a bold pivot towards lifestyle and homewares.

The Chanel show, held at the Grand Palais, was a nostalgic tribute to the brand’s first boutique, with butterscotch carpets and floor-to-ceiling mirrors evoking a bygone era. The collection featured shoulder-baring dresses, flat boots, and a dropped-waist wedding gown, all characteristic of Chanel’s signature pastoral simplicity. The show’s focus on comfort and elegance was a deliberate nod to Coco Chanel’s iconic designs from the jazz age.

However, beneath the surface, Chanel is facing the challenges of the global luxury downturn. The brand’s 2024 revenues declined by 4.3%, a stark contrast to its decade-long period of global growth. Chanel’s president, Bruno Pavlovsky, attributed the decline to geopolitics, tariffs, and the global economy, stating that luxury fashion is “volatile and fragile at the moment.”

In contrast, JW Anderson has chosen to confront the downturn head-on by abandoning traditional fashion shows. The Northern Irish designer, now at Dior, has shifted his focus towards lifestyle and homewares, with a curated selection of over 500 collectibles and heirlooms set to be launched in September. This move is a deliberate reaction against mass-produced and hyper-commercialism, with Anderson aiming to create a sustainable model that prioritizes quality over high turnover.

Anderson’s new venture will feature a range of items, including coffee-flavored tea, restored gardening tools, and even food. The idea is to create objects of desire that are both unique and timeless, much like his trademark rugby shirts, which now come with fun new slogans. By embracing a more artisanal approach, JW Anderson is betting on the growing demand for luxury homewares and the global home and garden market’s projected 1.3% growth to $122bn this year.

As the fashion industry continues to navigate the challenges of the global luxury downturn, Chanel and JW Anderson’s divergent approaches serve as a reminder that resistance to change is not always the most effective strategy. While Chanel’s heritage and elegance continue to captivate audiences, JW Anderson’s bold pivot towards lifestyle and homewares may prove to be a savvy move in the face of an uncertain future.