A Strong Start for the French House’s New Creative Director

In a highly anticipated debut, Michael Rider presented his first collection for Celine, marking a new era for the French fashion house. The show, held on a rainy afternoon at Celine’s headquarters on Rue Vivienne, was a crowd-pleaser, balancing heritage and novelties in a perfect measure. Rider, who previously served as creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren, brought his own unique touch to the brand, while paying homage to the best bits of the Hedi Slimane and Phoebe Philo eras.

Founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana, Celine has a rich history that spans over seven decades. The brand’s early years were marked by a focus on shoes, with Vipiana’s husband, Richard Vipiana, creating the iconic 3910 luggage bag in 1954. This iconic design would go on to become a staple of the brand, symbolizing Celine’s commitment to quality, timelessness, and style.

Throughout the years, Celine has been part of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton stable since 1996, and has seen its ups and downs. American designer Michael Kors, who was at the helm of the brand from 1997 to 2004, helped rev up the house, but it struggled to reclaim that buzz under former Burberry designer Roberto Menichetti and Prada alum Ivana Omazic. However, the brand’s fortunes changed with the arrival of Phoebe Philo and Hedi Slimane, who propelled Celine into fashion’s big leagues.

Rider’s collection was a masterclass in tailoring, with strong-shouldered jackets and narrow, buttonless coats that exuded a sense of elegance and sophistication. The pants were equally impressive, ranging from slim leggings to loose culottes, some with cuffs and satin stripes that added a touch of luxury. The overall aesthetic was a blend of modernity and timelessness, with a hint of ’80s flair in the pleated carrot shapes and harem pants.

Rider’s design philosophy is centered around creating clothing that lives on, becoming a part of the wearer’s life and speaking to years and years of gestures, occasions, and change. This is evident in the collection’s focus on timeless pieces, such as the ivory infanta gown and the LBDs trimmed with garlands of jet beading. The show also featured a range of bags and costume jewelry, including new shapes and colors in Triomphe canvas and raffia totes.

The crowd was electric, with designers Lucie and Luke Meier, Jonathan Anderson, and Raf Simons in attendance to show their support. Rider, who has worked behind the scenes his entire career, seemed at ease talking to reporters backstage, sharing his vision for Celine and its values of quality, timelessness, and style.

As Celine embarks on this new chapter, it’s clear that Rider has a deep understanding of the brand’s history and its potential for the future. With this strong debut, he has set the tone for an exciting new era for the French fashion house, one that promises to balance the brand’s heritage with a fresh, modern perspective.