From Inspiration to Appropriation: The Complex Relationship Between Western Fashion and Indian Culture

The recent controversy surrounding Prada’s use of traditional Indian sandals has sparked a long-overdue conversation about cultural appropriation in the luxury fashion industry. The Italian fashion house’s failure to acknowledge the inspiration behind its sandals, which bore a striking resemblance to the centuries-old Kolhapuri chappals, sparked fierce debate and criticism from Indian designers, artisans, and social media users.

The incident highlights the complex and often fraught relationship between Western fashion and Indian culture. For decades, Indian textiles and motifs have been a staple of Western fashion, with designers like Gucci and Reformation drawing inspiration from traditional Indian garments, only to be criticized for cultural appropriation when they fail to acknowledge the source of their inspiration.

The Indian luxury market is on the rise, with an estimated growth of 44% between 2023 and 2028, fueled by a rising middle class, increased urbanization, and a new generation of brand-conscious, internationally-minded young consumers. However, this growth has also led to a growing sense of cultural pride and awareness among Indians, who are increasingly demanding recognition and respect for their cultural heritage.

“India is not just a source of inspiration for luxury fashion,” said Imran Amed, founder and editor-in-chief of The Business of Fashion, “it’s also an integral part of its supply chains. Yet, despite Indian artisans’ foundational role, their creations are often shipped to Europe for final assembly and can thus be labeled as being ‘made’ in Europe.”

Amed’s comments highlight the issue of erasure, where Indian artisans are often overlooked and undervalued in the production process. This can lead to a lack of recognition and respect for the cultural heritage and craftsmanship that goes into creating these luxury goods.

However, there are signs that some Western labels are beginning to take a more respectful approach to engaging with Indian culture. Dior’s recent runway show in Mumbai, which celebrated the subcontinent’s artistry and featured Banarasi brocade, mirror work, and other traditional Indian motifs, was widely hailed as a respectful homage.

The collaboration between Dior and the Mumbai atelier Chanakya International was praised for its thoughtful approach, which not only sourced Indian textiles but also spotlighted the artisans and acknowledged the lineage of the craft. This approach is a far cry from the cultural appropriation that has marred many other instances of Western fashion’s use of Indian culture.

As the Indian luxury market continues to grow, it’s clear that Western fashion must take a more nuanced and respectful approach to engaging with Indian culture. This requires not only recognition and acknowledgement of the cultural heritage and craftsmanship that goes into creating these luxury goods but also a willingness to collaborate and learn from Indian designers and artisans.

As Gaurav Gupta, a celebrated Indian fashion designer, said, “We’re not adapting to fit in anymore; we’re expressing to stand out.” It’s a message that resonates with the growing sense of cultural pride and awareness among Indians, and one that Western fashion would do well to take note of.