A Look into the Lives of Japan’s ‘Happy Victims’

In the world of high fashion, it’s often assumed that the most devoted fans are affluent, stylish, and effortlessly cool. However, a series of photographs taken by Japanese photographer Kyoichi Tsuzuki reveals a different story. Tsuzuki’s 2008 photo book, “Happy Victims,” captures the lives of Tokyo’s most obsessed fashion collectors, who sacrifice their comfort and financial stability to pursue their passion for luxury brands.

Tsuzuki’s fascination with the subject began in the late 1990s, when he noticed that young people in Tokyo were collecting clothes in the same way as books or records. He realized that these collectors were not the affluent individuals that high-end fashion brands often portrayed, but rather working-class people who were willing to make significant sacrifices to own the latest designer items.

“I was surprised to find that many of these collectors were ordinary people, not the kind of individuals that luxury brands would lead us to believe,” Tsuzuki said in an interview with Dazed. “They were people who had to choose between food, clothing, and shelter, and they chose to spend their money on fashion.”

Tsuzuki’s photographs take the viewer into the homes of these collectors, revealing a world of cluttered rooms filled with designer clothes, shoes, and accessories. The collectors themselves are often shy and hesitant to be photographed, but they are also fiercely devoted to their passion.

“It’s strange that the fashion business is hiding its most loyal customers,” Tsuzuki said. “I think it’s because the brands have a certain image in mind, and they don’t want to associate themselves with people who are willing to sacrifice their financial stability for fashion.”

One of the collectors featured in Tsuzuki’s photographs is a Buddhist monk who collects Commes des Garçons. The monk’s room is a shrine to the brand, with posters, flyers, and collection invitation sheets covering the walls. Despite his devotion to the brand, the monk is never invited to collection events, and instead relies on auction sites to find rare items.

Tsuzuki’s photographs also reveal the role of shop assistants in the fashion industry. These individuals, who are often low-paid and overlooked, play a crucial role in helping collectors find the items they desire. For the collectors, the shop assistants are not just salespeople, but confidants who share their passion and help them navigate the world of high fashion.

“It’s just like how a record shop salesperson knows what kind of music you like and recommends new records,” Tsuzuki said. “But in the fashion business, shop salespeople are at the bottom of the hierarchy. They receive the lowest pay and are forced to buy new collections.”

Today, Tsuzuki’s photographs remain a powerful commentary on the fashion industry and its true customers. While the design of high fashion has not changed significantly in the past 25 years, the financial situation of young people has become increasingly difficult. As a result, many have lost interest in high fashion, opting instead for second-hand clothes or more affordable alternatives.

Tsuzuki’s photographs serve as a reminder that the true devotees of high fashion are not the affluent and stylish, but rather the ordinary people who are willing to make significant sacrifices for their passion. They are the “happy victims” of the fashion industry, who are willing to put their financial security at risk in order to own the latest designer items.

In an era where social media is dominated by influencers and celebrities, Tsuzuki’s photographs offer a refreshing alternative. They are a testament to the power of human passion and devotion, and a reminder that fashion is not just about style and aesthetics, but also about the people who make it happen.

The Legacy of ‘Happy Victims’

Tsuzuki’s photographs have had a lasting impact on the fashion industry, inspiring a new generation of photographers and collectors. The book has been reissued several times, with an updated foreword by Tsuzuki and an introduction by Isabella Burley of Climax Books.

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in the world of high fashion, particularly among younger generations. However, this interest is not just about the clothes themselves, but also about the people who make them. Tsuzuki’s photographs offer a unique perspective on the fashion industry, one that is both intimate and revealing.

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, it is likely that Tsuzuki’s photographs will remain a powerful commentary on its true customers. They are a reminder that fashion is not just about style and aesthetics, but also about the people who make it happen, and the sacrifices they are willing to make in order to pursue their passion.