A Timeless Garment Reclaims Its Place in the Spotlight

The white shirt, long a staple of formality and quiet power, is experiencing a quiet resurgence on the catwalk and in the public eye. From Victoria Beckham to Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, and even Taylor Swift, the unassuming garment has become a symbol of effortless sophistication and soft power. Beckham, who has worn white shirts throughout her 2023 documentary, has long understood the subtle strength of the piece. As Elle’s commissioning editor Naomi Pike notes, the white shirt is “silent but does the heavy lifting,” blending formality with flexibility.

The garment’s versatility allows it to be styled in countless ways—open collar, rolled sleeves, or hidden under a jumper—offering a balance between professional and personal. This duality has made it a favorite among high-profile figures, from Princess Kate to Gwyneth Paltrow, who have all embraced the white shirt in different contexts. The rise in popularity has also boosted sales for British brands like With Nothing Underneath and The White Company, which have seen a surge in demand for oversized, crisp white shirts. In fact, With Nothing Underneath has grown by 130% this year, while sales at John Lewis have jumped 33% for white shirts.

Historically, the white shirt has roots that stretch back to the 18th century, with Marie Antoinette’s muslin chemise becoming an early example of power dressing. A new V&A exhibition exploring her style features a 1783 portrait by Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun of the doomed queen wearing a white chemise, or shirt-style dress. Dr. Sarah Grant, a senior curator at the V&A, describes the garment as “diaphanous while also somehow clingy,” an early example of power dressing that was “very fashion forward.” The chemise’s simplicity and loose fit were considered seductive and controversial at the time, even leading to its removal from the Salon of 1783.

The modern white shirt has evolved from its historical roots, becoming a cornerstone of both workwear and leisure. Popularized by Coco Chanel in the early 20th century and later iconified by Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday, the white shirt became a go-to for women entering the workforce. It was further cemented in fashion history by Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, the 90s It girl, who wore hers with slim jeans and a red lip. Today, it continues to be a staple on the runways of designers like Donna Karan and Calvin Klein.

The garment’s appeal is not just in its aesthetics but also in its practicality. In the context of the pandemic, when many women shifted to remote work, the white shirt became a go-to piece for its ability to transition from home to office. Its resurgence in recent years reflects a broader cultural shift toward minimalism and intentionality in fashion. As Naomi Pike explains, the white shirt is “the easiest way to show you’re back – and back at it,” making it a powerful tool for both personal and professional branding.

As fashion continues to shift, the white shirt remains a timeless symbol of elegance, simplicity, and quiet influence. Whether worn by a celebrity, a CEO, or a student, it continues to carry the weight of its history while adapting to the needs of the present. In a world increasingly focused on individuality and self-expression, the white shirt stands as a reminder that sometimes, the most powerful statements are made in silence.