Cos and Gwyneth Paltrow’s Rebrand Signal a Shift in the Fashion Landscape

At New York Fashion Week, high street brands took center stage, signaling a broader shift in the fashion industry. Cos, the Swedish label founded by the H&M Group in 2007, made a bold entrance on day four with a brutalist-themed show that broke from the typical luxury designer format. Held in a former 1890s rope factory in Brooklyn, the event featured a cracked concrete-effect catwalk and a color palette of metal greys and charcoal. The collection, known for its sharp tailoring and innovative designs, aimed to elevate the brand beyond its fast-fashion reputation. Oversized coats, tightly cinched with skinny belts, and knife-sharp lapels on shirts and jumpers showcased a focus on craftsmanship and minimalism. Prices remained accessible compared to luxury brands, with items like a leather funnel-neck top priced at £299 and four-figure coats available for those seeking a more elevated look. This season, Cos also decided to drop its sub-brand “Cos Atelier,” aiming to simplify the customer experience and avoid confusion.

Alongside Cos, Gwyneth Paltrow unveiled her rebranded fashion label, Gwyn, at a design gallery in Tribeca. Previously known as the G Label and sold through her wellness and lifestyle brand Goop, the new collection focuses on soft, power dressing, reflecting Paltrow’s personal style rooted in New York and her time living in England. The rebrand comes as part of a broader restructuring at Goop, which has shifted its focus to fashion, beauty, and food after significant layoffs and a reduction in product lines. Paltrow’s new line features chunky jumpers and splash-proof barn jackets, moving away from the controversial stunts that have characterized Goop in the past. The Gwyn collection is a departure from the brand’s previous eccentricity, aiming instead for a more grounded, minimalist aesthetic that aligns with Paltrow’s public persona.

The appearance of Cos and the rebranding of Gwyn highlight a growing trend among high street brands to align with luxury aesthetics and celebrity influence. As competition intensifies, these brands are striving to capture customer loyalty in a market increasingly divided between ultra-fast fashion and ultra-high-end luxury. The trend of “luxe-washing” is evident in collaborations between high street labels and renowned designers, such as Zac Posen with Gap and Clare Waight Keller with Uniqlo. These partnerships aim to bridge the gap between affordability and high-end design, offering consumers a middle-ground option in a rapidly evolving market.

Zara has also partnered with a range of high-profile figures, including Kate Moss and Stefano Pilati, while Mango has worked with Victoria Beckham. These collaborations not only elevate the brands’ image but also help them tap into the appeal of celebrity culture and designer craftsmanship. Meanwhile, H&M, Cos’s sister brand, is set to open London Fashion Week with a show styled by Katie Grand, a British creative director known for her work with Marc Jacobs and Prada. The show will feature models such as Alex Consani and Paloma Elsesser, signaling a continued push by H&M to align with high fashion.

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, the pressure on high street brands to innovate and maintain authenticity has never been greater. With consumers more attuned to transparency and quality than ever before, brands must balance the allure of luxury with the practicality of everyday wear. The success of these initiatives will depend on whether these brands can deliver on their promises of quality, sustainability, and authenticity—while keeping their prices accessible.