The Museum at FIT Explores the Hidden Psychology Behind Clothing and Design

In a compelling exhibition titled “Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and Psychoanalysis,” the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (MFIT) delves into the intricate relationship between clothing, design, and the human psyche. Curated by Valerie Steele, a leading voice in the field of fashion history, the exhibition draws on the legacy of Freudian theory and explores how fashion has long been a reflection of unconscious desires, emotions, and societal pressures. Steele, who has dedicated her career to examining the cultural and intellectual dimensions of fashion, has crafted a show that bridges the worlds of haute couture and psychoanalysis, revealing the deeper meanings behind the garments we wear.

The exhibition opens with a cultural history of psychoanalysis, tracing its roots back to Sigmund Freud and his wife, Martha Bernays. While Freud rarely discussed clothing in his published works, his personal letters reveal a preoccupation with his wardrobe, highlighting the intersection of identity, status, and self-expression. The display includes a formal suit from the Viennese tailor Knize, paired with a fin de siècle gown by Emile Pasquier, offering a glimpse into the sartorial lives of Freud and his contemporaries. This juxtaposition of Freud’s austere, tailored ensemble with the opulent, beaded gown worn by his wife underscores the contrasting roles of men and women in the late 19th century.

As the exhibition progresses, it explores a range of psychoanalytic concepts, from the symbolic meanings of clothing to the evolution of desire and identity. Highlights include a Surrealist trio—Salvador Dalí, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Jacques Lacan—who redefined fashion and desire through the lens of psychoanalysis. Dalí’s dreamlike imagery and Schiaparelli’s collaboration with artists like Dalí resulted in iconic pieces such as the “Lobster Dress,” while Lacan’s reinterpretation of Freudian theory brought a new dimension to the understanding of desire and identity.

The exhibition also features modern interpretations of these themes, such as a 2020 gown by Jun Takahashi for Undercover, which embodies the concept of the “Death Drive,” a theory refined by Sabina Spielrein in the early 1900s. The black satin gown is printed with roses and razor blades, symbolizing the tension between beauty and destruction. Another standout is a 2020 coat ensemble by Viktor & Rolf, covered with conical spikes that evoke both the medieval and the contemporary, reflecting the primal responses to the coronavirus pandemic.

In the “Dream Interpretation” section, Ruben Toledo’s two inkblot fashion illustrations from 1992 are displayed. Each illustration is created by drawing one half in watery ink and then folding the paper to create a darkly charming Rorschach image. These pieces capture the surreal and subconscious nature of fashion, blending art, psychology, and design.

Through a combination of historical artifacts, contemporary fashion, and psychological theory, “Dress, Dreams, and Desire” offers a rich and thought-provoking exploration of how fashion is not just a surface-level expression, but a profound reflection of the human condition. The exhibition runs through January 4, 2026, at the Museum at FIT, inviting visitors to reflect on the deeper meanings behind the clothes they wear and the desires they express.