More than 100 objects trace how the designer develops his work. The exhibition closes Sunday at Ambika P3.

Soft folds of dark fabric catch the light against a black background.
Draped fabric in an illustrative photograph accompanying the exhibition coverage. Photograph by Kateryna Hliznitsova / Unsplash.

Aitor Throup’s Ultra Veil brings drawings, garment prototypes and sculpture into the same exhibition at Ambika P3 in London. Presented by the Westminster Menswear Archive, it is the designer’s first new body of conceptual fashion work in a decade. Its final public day is Sunday.

The archive says the show contains more than 100 objects. Some belong to the early stages of a design, while others are closer to becoming products. Showing them together gives visitors a chance to look at changes in shape, construction and material across different stages of Throup’s work.

The archive follows work in progress

Throup was born in Buenos Aires and moved to Burnley in 1992. He is known for the menswear label New Object Research. The pieces on view come from his developing Aitor Ultra practice and include new sculpture alongside evidence of how the work took shape.

For the archive, the exhibition is a chance to document decisions while they are still being made. A prototype can preserve the cut of a garment at one stage, and a drawing can record an idea that changes before the next version. The university says some of the material may inform products or collaborations with Fred Perry, Umbro and Maharishi.

Materials and construction lead the reading

During the run, the archive offered fashion students sessions built around close examination of the objects. Participants were asked to consider how an object was made, how it holds its shape and which details indicate an experiment. The archive introduced the design context after that first reading.

The exhibition also includes a soundscape by musician and producer Thundercat. Fred Perry, which supports the show, says its collaboration with Throup is due to launch in 2027.

The final day is Sunday

Ultra Veil is at Ambika P3 on the University of Westminster’s Marylebone campus. The university lists opening hours of 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. for the run, which began on 30 October and ends on 8 November. Admission is free.

Sources

University of Westminster — exhibition announcement and opening hours

Westminster Menswear Archive — exhibition and object-based study programme

Fred Perry — soundscape and collaboration

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